Just Breathe: Taking a Moment for Yourself Before the Deluge

Often, when hosting larger parties, I find myself cooking, plating, dusting, and fiddling with decorations right up until the last minute. The doorbell rings, and there I am, still in an apron, probably covered in flour, not a stitch of makeup on my face. A few parties ago, I instituted a new rule: Regardless of where I might be in the preparations, 30 minutes before my guests are scheduled to arrive, I stop whatever I’m doing to freshen up, have a drink, and nibble on some finger food. I’ve learned from experience that as soon as friends walk through the door, I’ll be busy pouring drinks, passing canapés, making clever introductions, and running around joining multiple conversations before I know what’s hit me. It’s altogether more than likely I won’t sit down or eat another thing until the guests have all departed and I’m left to clean away the remnants.

This year I plan to start my big night with a little bubbly. And I won’t be breaking out the sparkling wine. Instead, I’m thinking a bottle of Hoegaarden with some of my favorite Salmon Rillettes. Made with a hint of Curacao orange peel and coriander, the fruity, slightly spicy beer is a perfect match for the bright, citrusy flavors of the fish preparation. The recipe recommends serving the rillettes as a spread with crusty bread, but I think a small quenelle looks terrific on individual leaves of endive—fan them out around a plate for a spectacular presentation.